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5/30//2007
Quick Lock and Quick Release Grid Camps
These grid clamps make it easy for you to insert and remove your tube. Available only with one of the sockets I build.
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8/2//2005
eHam.net
(http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/5304)
Review the W4ZT socket and **PTFE chimney
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3/29/2005
This socket has a 6" chassis plate and a
Machined Solid **Teflon® Chimney
This is REAL virgin **PTFE which is machined to fit the GS-35B.
Click on the picture or the link for more info.
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2/8/2005
These are all the components that are used to make the socket. |
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11/20/2004
Shown here at 24a are two tubes on one chassis plate. This illustrates
how well this design will lend itself to a variety of layouts
and user needs. The construction details are the same as those
for the single tube shown below. All that's needed is to duplicate
the design on one chassis plate. Click on the picture for more
two tube fixture details.
05/24/2005
24b is a dual socket with the **PTFE chimneys installed. |
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11/04/2004
Another view of the fixture with the tube in place. From this point,
once the exact mounting location is determined, mounting holes will
be drilled in the top plate flange for the mounting screws. |
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11/04/2004
Completed socket with the tube in place and the anode heat sink reinstalled.. |
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11/04/2004
Here the tube is clamped in the socket and it's ready for the anode
heat sink. |
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2/8/2005
The bottom of the fixture with the tube in place. |
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11/04/2004
This is the hex socket head screw that pulls the grid ring clamp against
the tube. |
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11/04/2004
Taking a peek through the standoff you can see the grid ring hold
down clamp. Note how the clamp has a good flat fit on the grid ring
and is resting level between that grid ring and the foot on the other
end of the clamp. This insures that the clamping pressure will hold
the grid ring down without any side pressure. A hold down clamp made
from angle stock will do the same thing. |
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11/04/2004
The tube is fitted into the socket and the clamps are in place holding
down the grid ring. The anode heat sink must be removed to put the
clamps in place or the grid plate can be taken loose from the standoff
and clamps put in place. |
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11/04/2004
This is the GS-35B with the copper heat sink removed. After removing
the nut and washers, it may take a gentle bump on top of the stud
with a plastic or wooden handle to separate the tightly fitted pieces.. |
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11/02/2004
Completed socket with chimney in place showing placement of the grid
ring clamp inside. This particular socket was built using a 5"
square plate. The earlier socket was built using a larger plate. Just
shows it doesn't matter, do what works best for you. The chimney is
4" PVC, 1-1/2" long and is fastened to the plate with four
#4 machine screws. It extends just far enough to surround the bottom
of the anode heat sink insuring the air will all flow up through the
fins and a small amount around the outside between the PVC and the
copper heat sink. |
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11/02//2004
These are the completed copper grid ring clamps. The brass ones are
made the same but slightly wider. You can make these using a hacksaw
and file if you like. Nothing magic about how they're finished. The
full dimensions are in the diagram on picture 12. |
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10/31/2004
This is a detailed drawing with dimensions of the grid clamp. This
is the machined one and is more complex than you have to make it but
it gives you the picture. The dashed hole below and outside the bottom
half (top view) of the clamp is used in my setup only and has nothing
to do with the actual cut. |
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10/26/2004
These are the copper blocks I cut for grid ring clamps. They aren't
finished in this photo. I switched to brass because it is easier to
work and harder material. |
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10/26/2004
Clamps for the grid ring can be made many ways. I've tried the simple
"L" or "Z" bracket that others have used and didn't
like how they fit so I decided to make mine from solid stock. I did
this on the milling machine but there is no reason you can't make
blocks from a piece of bar stock cutting the notch with a hacksaw
and filing it smooth. I started off with copper but found that a piece
of brass bar was the easiest to work and easiest to find. This is
a picture of the copper clamps I made first. |
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7/24/2004
View from the bottom side. Once completed, there will be 8 screws
securing the copper plate to the aluminum standoff. I may use 0.001"
stainless shim stock between them if it appears that there is any
reaction between the copper and aluminum. There will also be 4 stainless
cap screws for securing the grid ring clamps. |
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7/24/2004
and 1/22/2005
View from the tube side. The area of the 3.5" hole in the plate
is 9.6"². The area of the ceramic portion of the tube (diameter
2.47") is 4.8"². The area of the open space around the tube
through the 3.5" hole (9.6"² - 4.8"²) is 4.8"².
The area of all the 1/4" holes in the standoff is 5.694"²
which exceeds the area of the open space around the tube by 0.894"².
In this photo, the standoff is temporarily fastened to the chassis
plate with 4 pan head screws. When completed it will be fastened with
8 flat head screws and the chimney will be attached with 4 pan head
screws from below. 1/22/2005 the hole layout was changed to ten holes
on the top and bottom rows and nine holes in the center row raising
the number of holes to 116 and raising the total area of holes to
5.694 square inches. This photo is of the old hole layout. |
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2/06/2005
This is the layout of the grid mounting plate. |
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7/24/2004
The standoff and grid mounting plate laying on the top plate. The edge of the 3-1/2" hole just touches the inside edges of the standoff. This leaves enough room in the corners for screws to secure the chimney. |
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7/24/2004
The chassis plate drawing. |
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7/24/2004
6a - The top plate for the fixture has been cut 6" x 6".
It could be as small as 5" x 5". Using a 3-1/2"
hole saw in the drill press and a wood jig clamped to the drill
press table to hold the aluminum plate, I carefully cut out
the center hole. This came out very nice. 6b - A 5" x 5"
plate drilled and ready to use.
CAUTION
- For best results and for YOUR safety... CLAMP THIS PIECE VERY
WELL DURING THIS STEP!
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7/19/2004
& 2/8/2005
5a - Here's the grid mounting plate. It's cut from scrap copper
plate. I used a 2-3/8 inch hole saw to cut the hole out for
the tube's grid ring. The specification for the grid ring diameter
is 60.3 (-0.8) mm. The hole saw makes a nice clearance hole
with a nominal diameter of 60.325 mm. The cap screws which will
secure the grid ring clamps will be in the corner spaces. This
is best done with a drill press and clamping the work in a wood
jig which is clamped to the drill press table. 5b - 2/8/2005
Completed grid mounting plate. This one is made from solid 1/8"
copper plate.
CAUTION
- For best results and for YOUR safety... CLAMP THIS PIECE VERY
WELL DURING THIS STEP!
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10/31/2004
and 1/22/2005
Here's a drawing of the hole pattern for the standoff with dimensions
Click on it to see a larger one you can read. On January 10, 2005
I added one additional hole on each end of the center row of holes
for a total of 112 holes. On January 19, 2005, I changed that layout
completely by putting ten holes on the top and bottom and nine in
the center. This brings the total to 116 holes (29 per side) with
a total area of 5.694 square inches. |
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7/18/2004
and 1/22/2005
3a - Completed standoff. You can see the pattern of holes all
the way around. That's 26 holes on each side for a total of
104 holes, each 1/4 inch in diameter. This part takes more time
to make than anything else in this entire fixture. It takes
me about 2.5 hours to make one of these from start to finish.
3b - 1/22/2005 I changed the hole layout to ten holes on the
top and bottom rows and nine holes in the center row raising
the number to 116 and total area of holes to 5.694 square inches. |
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7/18/2004
Drilling the holes for the air passages is made easy using a mill
but you can mark, punch and drill each hole with an ordinary drill
or drill press. It will just take longer. The number and size of the
holes has been carefully calculated to provide an area which will
exceed the area of the space around the tube through the mounting
plate. See picture #4. Which ever method you choose, be sure to clamp
the work in a vise while drilling to keep it safe. |
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7/18/2004 and
1/22/2005
The grid
ring mounting plate standoff is made from a 1 inch (approximate)
length of 4" x 4" square extruded aluminum tubing from
the scrap yard. The walls are 1/4 inch thick. This could also be
done with round tubing but it would be much more difficult to cut
square and get a good hole pattern. I had both and chose the square
tubing. You can also use 4 pieces of 1/4" x 1" bar stock
for the standoff, joining them in the corners with screws or welding
them. Whichever method you choose, carefully scribe the stock to
insure your cuts will be square with the sides. Carefully square
the ends of the tubing before laying out the holes. The holes are
1/4" in diameter and arranged in a pattern to get 29 holes
per side. See the diagram in picture #4. This photo is of the earlier
hole layout.
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